First Few Days in Tokyo

As one of the most populous cities in the world, Tokyo can be both exciting and overwhelming. We landed in Narita airport, about an hour outside of the city by train. The views outside were mostly rural and suburban, with scattered single family homes dotting the landscape, but this soon gave way to towering skyscrapers that dominated the horizon as we rode closer to the city.

Our full itinerary included a few days in Tokyo before traveling to other locations around central Japan, and then a few more days in Tokyo at the end of the trip. We spent the first couple of days sightseeing, eating great food, and also simply getting used to the environment. Having been to Taiwan many times in the past, I expected Japan to exhibit many similar features. In some ways, this was true - navigating the rail system is very similar in both places, and the convenience stores are just as common (and good for a cheap yet fulfilling meal) in Japan as they are in Taiwan. But other things some getting used to. People here drive on the left side of the street, which translates to standing on the left side of escalators. It makes sense when you think about it, but every time I get on an escalator I have to resist automatically moving to the right side. Trying to communicate a request with very limited language skills is always interesting, but so far most people we’ve encountered have been very willing to help out a group of confused looking tourists as best they can.

Chirashi for breakfast at Tsukiji Fish Market

Being extremely jet lagged, we woke up before dawn and decided the logical thing to do would be to go to Tsukiji Fish Market. Tsukiji Fish Market is famous for their huge facility for buying wholesale fish, the many restaurants and stores in the surrounding area serving delicious seafood, and the tuna auctions that you would need to stand in line for at four in the morning. We didn’t quite wake up early enough for the tuna auctions, but we were definitely up for having some of the freshest fish in the world for our first breakfast in Japan. There were way too many restaurants around the market to choose from, and they all looked great. The restaurant we finally settled on was a small, traditional looking sushi bar. I ordered a chirashi bowl, and everything was delicious, from the soft chewy salmon to the light yellowtail. Even the wasabi was great, a nice refreshing spiciness instead of the overwhelming flavor of horseradishes back home. The squid in particular stood out as some of the best squid I’ve ever had. It was creamy and flavorful with just the right amount of chewiness. 

Cutting tuna with a bandsaw

After breakfast we spent some time walking around the wholesale area. A lot of the workers looked like they were wrapping up for the day (it was around 9AM at this point), but there were still quite a few cutting frozen fish with bandsaws down to sellable sizes. It was interesting just watching them work, and seeing the precision with which they cut away the fish bones.

Hamarikyu Gardens

The other highlight of the day for me was the Hamarikyu Gardens. These gardens were where the shoguns and emperors would go to enjoy a relaxing home away from home, perhaps to do some duck hunting or spend a day at one of the many teahouses. Today the gardens are open for the public to walk around and enjoy some nature without traveling too far - a green haven within the bustling city. There was a small entrance fee, but included was a free audio tour explaining the significance of various sites in the garden. 

Hut for viewing (and hunting) ducks

The most surprising thing to me were the elaborate set ups built next to the duck hunting grounds. There were these hilly structures that almost looked like bunkers, with small slots cut through at eye level. One could stand inside the structure without startling the ducks and use the holes to dispense food and watch the birds. Most of all, it was just interesting walking around the gardens, and seeing the juxtaposition of new and old where the tops of the trees that have lived in the garden for centuries meet the modern shiny skyscrapers of today. 

View from within the garden

There’s still a lot to see in Tokyo. It strikes me as one of those places that you could spend years exploring and still not see everything. We’ll be back to Tokyo in a few days, but for now it’s off to adventures in Yudanaka!

- MC 4/10