Wednesday, December 30, 2015

The Three Star Experience

There are doubtless many financial bigwigs in New York City who can afford to have gourmet dinners every night. But for the rest of us mere mortals, visiting a three star Michelin restaurant is still a big event in itself. Last week M and I went to Le Bernardin, one of the great holy grails of fine dining, spending as much in one meal as our entire 5 night NYC hotel bill. Was it worth it? Well, we definitely can’t make a habit of eating there regularly, but between the superb service and fabulous food, we had no regrets.

Even the outside looked fancy

The moment we walked into the restaurant we were greeted by an attendant asking to take our coats in the coatroom. It only got classier when we walked into the actual dining room. Our waiter led us to our table and shifted our table out, making it easier for us to take our seats. This was only the first of many actions taken that were entirely unnecessary but worked at making us feel like royalty.

We decided to order the Chef’s Tasting to make the most out of our visit. After ordering, the waiter came around with a complimentary pre-appetizer dish. There were three parts of the dish - a tuna tartare, a piece of sashimi, and a creamy mushroom soup paired with a parmesan cracker.

Complimentary pre-appetizer

After finishing the pre-appetizer, our actual tasting dishes started coming out. The first dish was a yellowfin tuna carpaccio. It tasted delicious, and the texture was really interesting. The soft, almost chewy texture of the gelatin base contrasted nicely with the crunchy bits of bread and asparagus embedded within.

First course

The second appetizer was a warm king fish sashimi topped with osetra caviar and served in light mariniere broth. The sashimi was great, and the caviar practically melted in your mouth. But my favorite part about this dish was the broth. It had a vibrant buttery clam flavor, and yet avoided being too heavy to drink. 

Second course

The third appetizer was a pan roasted langoustine topped with truffled foie gras and served with aged sherry-versus vinaigrette. We were trying to figure out what exactly the langoustine was - some sort of cross between shrimp and lobster? Turns out it’s a specific type of lobster that can be found in the waters around Europe. Either way, it was tasty.

Third course

We got a brief reprieve after finishing the last appetizer. In the meantime, the man with the bread basket continued to make his rounds. Everyone got a piece of bread at the beginning of the meal, and basically every time we finished our bread he came back around to give us more. They had really interesting flavors, from tomato basil to cranberry walnut. It was a challenge controlling ourselves with the bread. Gotta save room for the rest of the meal…

For the first part of the main course, we got lobster tails with lemongrass consomme served with herb spring roll. The lobster was super tender and fresh.

Fourth course

The next main dish was poached halibut in wild mushroom soup. I’m normally ambivalent towards halibut, but this one was great, best halibut I’ve had.

Fifth course

Last main dish was a “Surf & Turf” consisting of a black bass and braised veal cheek. It’s hard to choose a favorite dish because they were all delicious, but I really liked this one in particular. The sea bass was cooked to a nice tender finish with a crispy layer of skin left on top. The veal was even more tender to the point where it almost melted in your mouth.

Sixth course

By this time we were pleasantly surprised to find that we were actually starting to get full, considering each dish was a relatively small tasting size. Guess it adds up after awhile. It was also worth noting that the waiters took the time to switch out all our utensils between every course, and even re-covered part of our tablecloth because there was a tiny smudge on it. Such incredible attention to detail.

We started our dessert part of the meal with a “matcha ball” made with green tea custard, with jasmine ice cream and preserved lychee on the side. A very Asian dessert following a mostly French meal. The different flavors matched well together and were sweet but not too sweet.

Seventh course

The second dessert course was apple themed. We got a apple slices topped with caviar, more ice cream, and a ginger-scented apple “bomb” - applesauce encased in a white chocolate shell. It made sense why the apple dessert came second because this was a lot sweeter than the matcha one.

Eighth course

The waiter surprised us with a final complimentary dessert (probably because we were spending so much already). It was a decadent dark chocolate mousse served on crispy rice clusters and chocolate branches. A heavy, but very satisfying end to the meal.

Complimentary chocolate dessert

And then just for fun we got a few more goodies after that. 

Bonus dessert - truffle, macaron, fruit jelly, brownie


After the actual last dessert, we asked if we could take a picture of the menu, and the waiter one-upped us by giving us a physical copy of the menu along with a free copy of the 2016 Zagat guide for NYC. Flipping through the guide, we saw Le Bernardin near the top of multiple lists, and from our experience, it was clear they deserve it. Everything about our meal was world class - not just the amazing food, but also the quality of the service, with servers who would get you what you wanted before you even asked. Despite the resulting hole in our wallet, it was one of the big highlights of our trip, and I would highly recommend it to be on any foodie’s bucket list.

Tuesday, December 15, 2015

Historical Day Trips Around Upstate New York

As one of the original thirteen colonies, New York has numerous historically significant points of interest dating back to the founding of the nation. Many battles from the revolutionary war were fought around the area, and countless historical figures made their homes in New York and the surrounding states. Lots of these historical sites have been preserved as state parks or tourist attractions, providing ample day trip opportunities for the history buffs. What follows are a few of my recommended historical places to visit in upstate New York and nearby in Vermont.

Main house at Hildene

Located in Manchester, Vermont, Hildene is the family home of Robert Todd Lincoln, Abraham Lincoln’s son. The house was purchased from the Lincoln family by a non-profit, and is now open for tourists to visit. Self-guided tour of the house takes less than an hour, but one could spend a full day exploring the entire estate. An extensive network of walking trails connects one point of interest to the next. Two of my favorite points on the estate were the Pullman car and the goat farm. An original Pullman train luxury car is open for visitors to walk through and admire. We used the free shuttle service to go from there to the goat farm on the far side of the estate, where you can learn about the cheese making process and pet some goats. There’s a lot to do, and I would recommend at least a half day to get the most out of a visit to Hildene.

Petting goats at the goat farm

Inside Fort Ticonderoga

Many battles from both the French and Indian and the Revolutionary Wars were fought at Fort Ticonderoga. The fort, located about two hours north of Albany, has been rebuilt and restored over the years to function now as a living museum. In addition to the indoor exhibits featuring historical artifacts from the revolutionary era, the fort staff give tours and demonstrations all throughout the day. 

Musket firing demonstration

Beside the obligatory full-fort tour, my top recommendation would be the musket firing demonstration which takes place several times a day. Several staff members dressed up in military uniforms show firing line formations and musket reloading and firing. When we went the garden was already past peak, but I would also recommend the garden tour during peak season. Ticonderoga is another feature filled attraction that would best be visited for at least a half day, if not a full day.

View from the top of Bennington Monument

At over 200 feet high, the Bennington Monument towers over the town of the same name. The monument commemorates the Battle of Bennington from the Revolutionary War, and features some exhibits in the small museum at the base of the tower. But I’m highlighting this mostly because of the awesome view at the top. For $5 you can take a ride to the observatory at the top of the monument, where you can see parts of Vermont, New York, and Massachusetts. Visiting the monument shouldn’t take more than an hour or so, but you can combine it with other nearby attractions (such as the Bennington Museum) for a full day trip.

Artwork from the Bennington Museum


Comprised of four distinct areas of interest, the Saratoga National Historic Park is a full day attraction. The main part of the park is the battlefield. Visitors have the option of exploring the battlefield on car or bike on the main paved self-guiding tour road, or on foot via the many walking trails throughout the park. The road takes you to various historical points, including battle sites, monuments, and old army occupied buildings. I chose to drive the tour road, and it took me roughly four hours to see everything, plus another hour spent at the visitor center at the beginning of the road. 

Cannons around the battlefield

A few miles north of the battlefield is the Schuyler House, where General Philip Schuyler lived. Hour-long tours run throughout the day. Northwest of the Schuyler House is the Saratoga Monument and Victory Woods. By the time I got this far, the monument was already closed for the day, but there was still enough sunlight to take a quick walk through the Victory Woods trail. The trail was about half a mile one way, and included various signs you could read about General Burgoyne’s last stand in those very woods. Overall it was a nice, relatively cheap (I only had to pay $5 for the battlefield - everything else was free) day trip, and highly recommended for anyone in the area with an interest in history.

The monument I didn't get to go up